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The eponymous provincial capital of Cao Bang itself is a likable place: its center may be dusty and noisy, but its riverside setting, with dense clumps of bamboo backed by sugar-loaf mountains, helps to blur the edges. The town is built on the southwestern bank of the Bang Giang River, on a spur of land formed by the confluence with the Hien River. The narrow, shady park on top of the low hill in the center of town is worth a wander, and the statue of Uncle Ho is a reminder of the fact that this region was vital to the thrust for independence that he led.
The countryside around Cao Bang is peppered with limestone outcrops and minority villages, several of which provide the opportunity to overnight in a homestay. While the landscape is not quite as dramatic as that around Dong Van, a trip out to Pac Bo Cave or Ban Gioc Waterfalls will make the journey out here worthwhile.
Designed Vietnam's eighth national park in 1992 and covering an area of about one hundred square kilometers, Ba Be National Park is a region of astounding beauty, from the lush vegetation mirrored in the still waters of Ba Be Lake to the towering limestone pinnacles that reach over 1500m high. Black bears, palm covers, and flying squirrels are known to inhabit the park, but nearer the lake, there's a better chance of spotting the more common macaques, herons, and garrulous, colorful flocks of parrots. Few people are around to disturb the wildlife, and outside July and August, you will usually find only a handful of tourists.
Pac Bo Cave is situated right on the border with China, and would attract little attention today had Ho Chi Minh not plotted the liberation of his country here in 1941. If you are not a fan of ho memorabilia then it's hard to justify the 50km excursion from Cao Bang, as the cave itself is unimpressive - though the first stage of the journey, passing minority villages moored in rice-paddy sesas and tobacco fields against craggy blue horizons, is a memorable ride.
When Ho Chi Minh walked over from China's Guangxi province in January 1941, he took his first steps on Vietnamese soil for thirty years. Later that same year he went back to China, to drum up support for his nascent army, and when he next returned to Pac Bo Cave it was after Independence, as a tourist, in 1961. The cave today is a strange mixture of shrine and picnic spot, while exhibits in the small museum include Ho's Hermes Baby typewriter, bamboo suitcase, and Mauser pistol.
The journey from Cao Bang to Ban Gioc Waterfalls - right on the Chinese border, like Pac Bo Cave - is extremely picturesque, passing several minority villages along the way. After 32km, the route passes the forging village of Phuc Sen, where you will see locals hammering new blades into shape on ancient anvils. Just beyond Phuc Sen down a tight turn, Pac Rang is a Nung Village with traditional stilthouses and is well worth exploring. If you would like to spend more time in this area, the scruffy town of Quang Uyen is based around the 38km mark and has a friendly homestay. about six kilometers before arriving at the falls, look out for the delightful scenes to the north across the Quay Son River, complete with waterwheels, grazing horses, and rugged karst mountains.
At the falls themselves, there are plenty of vendors selling snacks, and it's a pleasant spot to enjoy a picnic on the riverbank if the weather is good. Bamboo rafts offer rides right up by the falls, so you can feel the spray on your face and take lots of dramatic selfies. Though the falls are not particularly high, the broad curtain of water spilling over the lip makes for a pretty picture, especially in the rainy season (June- Oct) when water levels are higher. Inevitably, the falls are less than spectacular in the dry season (Nov - May).
Just a few kilometers back from the falls, Nguom Ngao Cave requires quite a long trek to reach (up and over a hill, then across fields) and there's nothing unusual inside apart from a "Silver Tree" - a stalagmite that glitters under the lights.
